Monday, April 27, 2015

The Great Smokies Adventure



Monday 3/31/2014
            Since my youth I have been enchanted, mesmerized by the Appalachian mountains, the Blue Ridge and Smokies that hover as guardians of this land, through the mists of smoky rain and the blue fog that compels the soul to soar and ignites a curious wonder and daring intrepid desire to seek to linger in the heaven of the mountains, exploring the subtle layers of the mystery of this land, from its history, hidden waterfalls and solitude peaks where you step into a fairyland on the earth.  For me the mountains have always been God’s temples and monuments on the earth, the forests the air of life and the rivers a form of baptism as I confess my humble failures in the midst of the extraordinary wonder of nature.  It is in the quiet places, the lost trails and back roads among the blue smoke of this ancient land, I find solace and rest in the healing in the mastery of the Great Smokies.  In the forest you see the miracle in every single tree – and started to understand the interconnected web of life and our duty to protect this land, and guard it as it guards and nourishes us.





          It is not a beauty that overwhelms you at first, rather it hearkens to great you with a subtle grandeur, and the more you explore the land…the more you come to fall in love with its deep impenetrable beauty.  It is a place, though harsh and at times volatile, has the power to soothe the soul.  If we sit quietly in the depths of the woods, one can hear the language of nature and in the language of nature, the glory of God as a creator and masterful artist reveals itself in soft vibrant conversation.      
          The language of nature is a wondrous sonnet that rhymes and beats to its own drum, a language universal; a language that stirs the soul and lifts the heart and fuels the lungs with air.  It is soft as a whisper, whistling in the singing of the leaves dancing in the spring wind, as harsh as the frost of a winter morn, a firestorm in autumn’s sunburst before the collapsing of the sky to the earth where it came.  It is bold and nuanced.  It is in the hills of the Great Smokies and the Blue Ridge Mountains I first fell in love with nature.  I found myself lost in the enchanting spell of this rugged, rambling high country.  This is a land where the mountains rise to meet the sky, colliding to form a vast ocean of blue. 

 This is the land of the blue smoke, where the mists rise out of the dense forests creating an ethereal mystic cloak, a veil of blue color.  The mountains roar with a subtle warmth, a concert of color and light.  Staring off into the sweeping panorama of the Smokies takes your breath away with a quiet wonder.  The scene is does not startle your senses with abrupt jagged, sheer cliff peaks of the Rocky Mountains, rather the Smokies entrance wanderers into its ancient magic, its alluring symphony.  The scene is a living work of art, nature’s watercolor.  The park is a living biosphere, it soars and dances, has mood swings from stormy cloudy mazes that swallow the mountains whole to ceaseless blue skies…The Great Smokies is a land where the mountains rise to meet the sky in an ocean of blue mist, the high country of the Great Smoky Mountains lures you into its mystery.  I am ready to explore, though honest enough to know that it will take 10,000 lifetimes to truly uncover all the secrets of this land…still I return, to quench my thirst.

          Still recovering from sleep deprivation, my mom and I slept in, before venturing into the western end of the Great Smoky National Park around 11:00 a.m.  We had hoped hike to Laurel Falls, a graceful cascade hidden in the forests.  Sadly we could not get a parking spot at this popular hiking trail.  The Smokies has limited parking at top attractions and it is essential to get an early start and have patience when touring the region.  The Smokies sees nearly 13 million visitors a year. 
          We decided to continue to drive to Cades Cove.  This isolated valley in Tennessee is surrounding with ambling beauty of the Smoky Mountains and open sky.  Cades Cove is steeped in history, legend and picturesque vistas.  
          Geologically, Cades Cove is a type of valley known as a “limestone window” created by erosion that removed the older Precambrian sandstone, thus exposing younger Paleozoic limestone buried beneath.  Weathering resistant formations, including Cades sandstone, which underlies Rich Mountain to the north and Elkmont and Thunderhead sandstones which form the Smokes crest to the south surround the cove, leaving it relatively isolated within the Great Smokies.  The weathering of the limestone produced deep, fertile soil, making Cades Cove attractive to early farmers.
          The majority of the rocks that make up Cades Cove are unaltered sedimentary rocks formed between 340 million and 570 million years ago during the Ordovician period. The Precambrian rocks that comprise the high ridges surrounding the cove are Ocoee Super Group sandstones formed approximately 1 billion years ago.   The mountains themselves were formed between 200 million 400 million years ago when the North American and African plates collided, thrusting the rock formations upward.  




          Prior to starting the 11 mile auto loop through historic Cades Cove, my mom and I did a half mile hike (Indian Graveyard) – investigated campground and picnic area. 
          The Cades Cove auto loop is an eleven mile one way road that traverses the history of this hidden valley oasis, where homesteaders lived off the land for centuries.   The Great Smoky National Park is more than just the mountains – it is the life of the mountains, the cultures of Cherokee to frontier settlers and pioneers who called this land home, a home where roots were as deep as the heart and the lungs to life…the people of blue smoke’s spirit lingers in the over a century old log cabins, churches and gristmills.  Cades Cove tells the story of human communities from feuds and friendships, toils and triumphs, the beauty of living in a land of plenty in spite of the perils of drought and storm, hardship and pain.  This land can renew the brokenness of spirit.  The mists of the Smokies like a cloud of prayers from heaven releasing a cleansing rain.
          My mom and I took our time enjoying the sights at Cades Cove, exploring the history of the Grist Mill and breathing in the mountain air imagining the past in the cove from the Cherokee to the bustling farming community to the present day. 
          My mom and I left Cades Cove around four o’clock and drove to the gateway town of Townsend, TN. Stomachs grumbling after a day of sightseeing we decided to stop at the Monte Real Mexican Restaurant.  I love Mexican cuisine and I have the waistline to prove it.  Monte Real offers delicious homemade authentic Mexican food with fresh ingredients.  Their service was upbeat, friendly and prompt.  I ordered the Tacos Carne Asada, seasoned tender steak tacos in made from scratch corn tortillas, cilantro, onion and spicy salsa.  My mom ordered the Pollo Loco, a perfectly seared chicken dish with rice and refried beans.  I have eaten a lot of Mexican food in my time and this ranks among the best…it was so fresh and authentic…muy delicioso!
          After a  ‘dunch’ we drove back into the park and stopped for a view of the roaring rapids of the Little River, where enjoyed a ¼ mile hike (turned around because of creeks and did not have waterproof hiking boots with us).


          We spent the rest of the evening relaxing in the room…I fell asleep around 7:30 still sleep deprived from the trip across the country…more adventures tomorrow.

Sunday, April 26, 2015

Mountain Retreat: Gatlinburg Day One



From Archived Journals of my trip across the country in 2014.

Sunday March 30 2014:
          Exhaustion, complete exhaustion.  It took every ounce of my energy to get out of the bed this morning (that and a large Caramel Latte with a shot of espresso from Starbucks) to leave the comfort of the bed.  Driving twenty-five hours straight was accomplished on a surge of energy and a fixed mission.  Now I am in need of serious relaxation from the intense drama of the past week.  The solution?  A getaway in the beauty and wonder of the Great Smoky National Park.  The mountains lift my soul out of desperation into life.  It is the peace and serenity we both longed for after a helter-skelter pace from Arizona to Tennessee.  With a week until we can move into our apartment we lucked out to discover a Motel 6 in Gatlinburg with a weekly rate of only $317.00 including a mini fridge and microwave. I will admit I have had a Gatlinburg prejudice in the past.  When I go to the mountains it is a spiritual experience, a quiet time of sanctuary to pray and reflect.  I love to delve into the wilderness of the woods, lost in the silent whisper of wind in the forest and roar of a stream. 
          Exiting off I-40 near Sevierville, just east of Knoxville, I felt as if I entered a nuclear explosion of ‘slock,’ tacky roadside gimmicks and tourist trap amusements more akin to a bad county fair than peace in the wilderness of the mountains.  This traffic artery is clogged with tourists coming to visit everything from Haunted Fun Houses, Pirate Ships that flop upside down, zoos and arcades, water parks to Dollywood (for the record I have heard Dollywood is well done for an amusement park and I am a big Dolly Parton fan). 

 It takes forty minutes in back to back inch like a slug traffic and fake glitz and glamor of Sevierville and Pigeon Forge before reaching the edge of Gatlinburg – ‘The Gateway to the Smokies.’   I had a headache from the bumper car style drive and endless strip malls and attractions obscuring the mountains.  


          I understand that this sort of vacation appeals too many and I am probably one of the few who cringe at the neon lights and hundreds of amusement park rides that charge an arm and a leg. In the muck of the 441 corridor – there are a few gems for families – Pigeon Forge does have good dinner theaters – staffed with top notch vocalists and performers.  Dollywood only recruits the best vocalists, dancers and actors – I know because when attending Belmont University in Nashville, auditioning for Dollywood only took place at Belmont and other selection prestigious classically trained schools.  Many dinner theaters like Dixie Stampede offer fun entertainment accompanied by southern fun cuisine.  So I do see some positives in the traffic clogged artery.  Still my focus in this trip is to retreat to nature and to the God made wonder of a place as old as time. 

 
          Cradled by the mists and magic of the mountains, Gatlinburg lies at the west entrance to the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, the town is a mecca for tourism.  On any given night the city’s compact downtown is bustling with upwards of 30,000 tourists. It is jam-packed as the Texas State Fair on a Friday night, families and newly married couples meandering through the maze of kitschy tourist shops, art galleries, a plethora of national and local restaurants, fun and mysterious attractions like Ripley’s Believe it or Not, Aquarium of the Smokies and Hollywood Cars Museum.  Gatlinburg has dozens of hotels along the main Parkway.   The best way to see Gatlinburg is on foot or by Trolley.  Traffic is slow and headache inducing.  So get park the car in one of the public parking lots, and take in the glitz, fun, tacky, weird and Tennessee hospitality.  I will admit at first Gatlinburg struck me as a tourist trap nightmare dropped from a tornado…it has grown on me, it has mountain sensibilities, is walkable and has a great public transit system.  It has a variety of restaurants and activities ideal of families.  Gatlinburg’s direct access to the blue mists of the Smokies and Appalachian lore hidden in these hills – makes it an ideal spot for a vacation base in the Smokies – if you tire of the tourist kitsch, you are mere moments away from the solitude of forests, isolated coves, mountains, rivers and the wild unknown.
          My mom and I checked into our room at Motel 6 just after four o’clock.  The Motel 6 is located in a perfect location for outdoor goers, focused on recreation. Backing up to the National Park boundary it is on a quiet side street located away from the hubbub of downtown, yet still within two blocks of restaurants and shops.  You can walk from the hotel into the park on the Gatlinburg Trail, sit by the Little Pigeon River and smell the forests.


          After unloading our car, an arduous and daunting process, we drove through the traffic jams again to reach the Kroger (later found out a Food City is slightly closer).  We have a refrigerator and microwave in the room, so we plan to eat in the room all week.  Eating out is not always easy with my allergies, not to mention with the car problems we are on a razor sharp budget given the vagabond blues breakdowns (in previous episodes of my journal chronicles you learned about our car fender falling off in Arizona and breakdown in Gallop NM before driving straight from Gallop NM to Cookeville TN in a 26 hour breakneck journey.)
          I finished the evening by relaxing in the room, watching the elite eight March Madness game (Connecticut and Michigan State U)