On January 6, my mom and I journeyed on a winter trek to Yellowstone's Northern Range. This is my first official trip to the park in the winter. I have lived and worked in Yellowstone in the summer, spending countless hours hiking and camping on and off the beaten path. When I worked at Old Faithful, we received two feet of snow on Memorial Day and the park was temporary closed to traffic, so I have technically experienced Yellowstone's 'winter breath,' but not in the full majesty of January.
We left just as the first ray of sunlight pierced the darkness. Our anti-freeze light popped on, so before leaving town we got our coolant topped off at J.C. Billion. The roads in Bozeman were slick in the morning frost, so I drove with extreme caution. I-90 fortunately was mostly clear except for a few icy spots on the Bozeman Pass, as we drove the twenty-three mile jaunt to Livingston.
Words alone, powerful as they are, cannot do justice for the sunrise. The sky opened up in a palette of color, pinks and greys, reds and soft iridescent blue of the coming day. The sun shone with intensity as it rose above the wandering valleys and towering mountains. The Absaroka in the near distance, standing as snowy guardians of the plains. The wind in Livingston is always intense, a wayward wind, so strong it flips cars over routinely. The crosswinds are a result of cold air funneling up from the mountain ranges, as a vortex of cold air blows its strength with the breath of Jack Frost.
From Livingston we headed south into The Paradise Valley, a sweeping arid valley, powered by the Yellowstone River and surrounded by the Absaroka Range to the east and Gallatin Range to the right. These hills are rocky, formidable peaks that impress with their fortitude and strength, rugged elegance...humbling passerby at every glance. The peaks seemed to commune with the clouds, the blue sky only intensifying the shadow and light of each peak to the sweep valley below.
The Yellowstone River is one of my favorite rivers in the world. With each mile it tells a story, it represents beauty and endurance, an explorer's disposition. The river is the longest free flowing river in the US at 600 miles. Its headwaters start at Yellowstone Lake, flowing north, through the colorful and spectacular Grant Canyon of the Yellowstone, onwards into Montana, ending its travels in western North Dakota.
We stopped for a quick break at the Highway 89-Paradise Valley rest area. The Yellowstone River trudged north, flowing through sheets of ice and snow.
The cerulean blue sky and fire of the sun, warmed the valley to 23 degrees by 9:30. The road got a bit icy in Yankee Jim Canyon, but luckily the traffic was non-existent and we drove cautiously at 55-60 mph, taking in every vista, soaking in the scenery. It looks so different in the winter, the chorus of snow. Even Devils Slide, a unique geologic feature was hidden by the blush of snow.
My heart skipped a beat as I saw the Roosevelt Arch, as we entered the gateway town of Gardiner Montana, which straddles the northern entrance to Yellowstone. The Roosevelt Arch, or The Gateway Arch is 'the Holy Gate,' for those Yellowstone lovers. The cornerstone was laid by Teddy Roosevelt in 1903, it continues to serve as a reminder of what the purpose of the national parks system is all about: 'for the benefit and enjoyment of the people.' I will add in this addendum: for the conservation and preservation of critical ecosystems and habitats.
Yellowstone was founded in 1872, making it the world's oldest national park. It is located in three states: WY (90%), MT (6%), ID (4%). It is and active volcano, home to over 10,000 thermal features - the highest concentration of thermal features in the world (Over half the world's geysers are located in YNP)
We arrived at Mammoth Hot Springs, the park's northern hub, just after ten o'clock. Mammoth is the only entrance open to vehicle traffic in the winter. To get to Old Faithful, Canyon, West Thumb...you have to go by snowmobile, skis or snow coach.
In need of caffeine, we stopped by the Yellowstone General Store, to down a cup of coffee before embarking on a snowy hike around the Mammoth Hot Spring terraces. Mammoth Hot Springs is one of the most interest geothermal areas of the park. It's heat source is funneled underground from Norris Hot Springs (the park's hottest thermal basin) 21 miles north. The terraces are elaborate, travertine monuments typically filled with the color of bacterial runoff as the steamy water cascades over the calcium carbonate deposits. In winter its a drastically different scene as many of the features are covered by snow, the heat of the springs causing a conflict of 'fire' and 'ice.' It is a mythical beauty that captivates the soul.
We felt like ghosts on the boardwalks, the snow deep, crunching beneath our feet as our shadows danced on the snow. The blue sky, expansive mountains, valleys and stacks of steam is a surreal frozen paradise. We had the trail practically to ourselves.
To learn more about Mammoth's geothermal features: http://www.nps.gov/yell/planyourvisit/nmammoth.htm
After the two hour terrace snow hike, we braved the Mammoth to Roosevelt Road, to experience the winter grandeur of the solitude of Yellowstone's Northern Range. The spectacular views of high rolling prairies and rocky peaks, go above beauty - it is heaven on earth. We saw several groups of hardy bison, eating and relaxing in the snow. There was no traffic, allowing the peace of the place to fill our senses.
We arrived back at Mammoth just after two o'clock. Hungry after the full day of hiking and driving, my mom and I enjoyed lunch or organic grass-fed burgers and salad in the Mammoth Hot Springs Dining Room. Mammoth has a charming hotel, designed by famous architect Robert Reamer (Old Faithful Inn, Lake Hotel - YNP). They have ski rentals on site and tours all winter - wolf gazing and nature tours. I hope to return soon and stay the night in the hotel.
The return drive through the Paradise Valley was just as impressive as the first journey, the clouds rolling in with dramatic tension, colorful hues and the setting sun fighting off the darkness. As we arrived home in Bozeman just after five o'clock, the sky was a deep pink-purple before slipping into the cold austere darkness of night. I said a prayer thanking God for his majesty in motion and our safe travels. Praying soon to return to my siren song - Yellowstone.
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