3/19/2014:
Seven a.m., the sun yawning as it
struggles to rise above the soaring 6,500+ Watchman. Zigzagging the tent zipper, I opened a window
to the majesty grandeur of Zion. I have
never camped in a spot that is so full of beauty. Yellowstone campgrounds are peaceful and near
the park’s vast wonders, still Zion’s Watchman rivals the view from the
campsite of anywhere else I have camped.
You step out of your tent and are instantly met by the fire-red ancient
canyon monuments of Zion. It kicks your
heartbeat up a notch, and you breathe in deep.
Any troubles are washed away by the warm glow of the sun reflecting on the
rock’s color palette and nightmares transformed by dreams of a paradise on
earth – I literally struggled to get out of my tent, still lost in the view
outside the door. After gathering my
strength I took two long steps outside; the air still cold at 33 degrees. After getting changed, my mom and I drove
into Springdale for breakfast and coffee at the funky eclectic Café Soleil
coffeehouse. Café Soleil has instantly
become a favorite haunt. They specialize
in rich coffee, southwest inspired breakfasts, open air lunches and delicious
desserts. The café is decorated with
colorful artwork by local photographer David West and painter Linda Pirri. I
fell in love with Linda’s use of color and fluidity of motion in her portrayals
of horses on the run. The café has
scrumptious food and a down to earth artsy vibe, welcoming strangers into the
community with an open door. My mom got
the frittata with Chile sauce and a caramel latte…I enjoyed a cinnamon tinged
Mexican Hot Chocolate. While in the café
I purchased several cards by David West and also a local indie band’s CD. Red Rock Rondo writes music inspired by Zion
Canyon. When I popped in the CD a few
days later, I fell in love with their folk/swing/Zion gypsy sound – and
storytelling perspective.
Fueled
after the hearty breakfast, my mom and I ventured into Zion Canyon for a day of
hiking and exploration.
Zion
is a biblical metaphor* translating
to a place of ‘peace, sanctuary, and spiritual reflection…a holy place…’ It
only takes one step into the shadow and splinter of luminous light filtering
through the jagged rocks of Zion Canyon’s towering walls to experience a
spiritual transformation. The hearts of
the faithful soar in the resplendent grandeur of God’s creation, all the while
falling to one’s knees in humble acceptance of our own limitations, a paradox
of self-awareness and willingly submitting to God’s care. Those who do lack faith in a great Creator,
cannot help but be stirred by the soul to acknowledge the mystery and majesty
of nature. Science and creation are not
at odds. Faith, hope, adversity,
resilience, death and life are intrinsically part of this canyon paradise. Zion
is a place of peace, a restless peace, a peace that beckons wonder, awe and
praise. The beauty pierces our stubborn
cynical armor. Those that enter this
land with the expectation of self-sufficiency, relying on their strength, will
fall to their knees. Zion like the
paradise of ‘Eden’ is not a place man can tame or control. Those that test the land boasting with
arrogant assumptions, will struggle. The
canyon is a beautiful place, still its peace is a wild dangerous beauty,
something to breathe in and bask in, ‘this is hallowed ground,’ where you tread
with caution and wonder, praise and humble peace. Zion can be as calm as still waters or as
furious, flash floods unexpectedly drowning the land, wind that bruises, cold
frost in the dark side of the moonlight, after sweltering hot, torrid,
mouthwatering heat. It is this
confluence of environments, fury and rage releasing the drought with rain that
reflects creation in motion, science and faith colliding into one. So we tread with wide-eyed wonder, content to
stand in the shadow of the canyon.
The
character of Zion National Park is a landscape of mountains and canyons that
converse with the clouds, buttes, windswept petrified sand dunes, and mesas,
slot canyons that narrow into hidden worlds, natural arches and forests. The park lies at the confluence of several
unique geomorphic patterns, including the edge of the Colorado Plateau, Great
Basin and Mojave Desert. I am still
learning about the fascinating interwoven geology that shaped this landscape,
from the uplift of the Colorado Plateau, to the carving of erosion from the
Virgin River, winding slowly and patiently cutting and carving the canyon(s)…I
will be posting a series of geological and natural history posts in the future
as I unravel the mystery and search for answers to the history of Zion.
Zion
National Park was founded in 1909 as ‘Mukuntuweap National Monument’ (thought
to be an ancient Native American name for the region) before being expanded as
‘Zion National Park’ in 1919. The park spans 229 square miles and includes two
major units: Kolob Canyon, located in the northwestern corner of the park; Zion
Canyon and the Mount Carmel road are in the heart of the park. Zion is small compared to Grand Canyon (1
million acres) and Yellowstone (2.1 million acres), but what it lacks in size,
the park makes up in jaw-dropping scenery.
The majority of Zion’s terrain is only accessible backpacking and hiking. There are three main road systems in Zion:
Kolob Canyons Scenic Drive (10 miles round trip), Zion Canyon Scenic Drive (24
miles round trip) and engineering marvel of the winding Zion to Mount Carmel Road
(connects the heart of Zion with Highway 89 to the east, allowing tourists to
easily travel to Bryce Canyon NP to the north and Grand Canyon to the
south).
Coming
from Yellowstone that hundreds of miles of roads (and roads are less than 15%
of the park) – Zion’s small size is a nice surprise. I love that Yellowstone is so large – with
miles of terrain to discover, but Zion is a place equally as striking and its
compacted size really allows you an opportunity to step off the beaten path and
fall into the foundation of the land. Zion’s
small size makes it difficult for the roads to accommodate travelers in the
peak season. In 2000 Zion began closing
the road except for park shuttles – helping to prevent pollution and offer a
more relaxing and logistically sound method of transporting over 2 million
visitors to the park each year. We are
arriving in Zion on the tail end of the off seasons, so shuttles are not in
session for another few weeks. Even now
parking lots fill up quickly. I think
the concept of shuttles and carpools in National Parks is one of the most
progressive steps to protecting our natural treasures for years to come. I think this concept can be applied to many
other avenues than parks – the shuttle is stress free and offers visitors a
chance to enjoy the park.
As
we curved around the bend I started panting, overwhelmed by the sheer drama
that lay before me. I still shiver as I
reflect on images of Zion etched in my memory.
Grand, Expansive, Narrow, Vast, Daunting, Colorful, Shadow, Light, Dance
of Rocks, Mystery, Fortitude, Temples, Fortresses, Castles, fertile,
desert…these are only a few simple words that describe the diversity of
topography. All the dictionaries and
thesauruses, languages and art can never fully conceptualized what the eyes
strain to see and the soul perceives at Zion.
It is unreal – WOW – I said that word at least twenty times as we
entered the nascent doorway to the
canyon. Wow.
Entering
Zion Canyon reminds me of entering a fairy tale or fantasy, the 6,000-8,000
foot sandstone cliffs run a gorge of half a mile apart for twelve miles before
narrowing into a slot canyon. You
imagine that you have stumbled onto a hidden world lost and found, the remnants
of an ancient civilization or perhaps a portal of some kind. You feel the spirit of the place in the
palette of color – a spectrum of deep reds, oranges, yellows and creamy
whites. The stone so perfectly carved it
had to be built by giants or Angels…God, in His creation molding this spot for
a paradise on earth. The patterns of the
rock so repetitive, the monuments of stones like fortresses and castles…even
with scientific explanation, you see the divine hand in the science, it is a
monument of creation – a testimony to the hardships of life and resilient beauty
of each breath and peace even in the fire of a thousand storms…
I
stopped to take a photograph of the ‘Court of the Patriarchs’ – three towers of
stone named after Abraham, Jacob and Moses…These pillars, jagged and contrasted
by light and dark stand in concert, yet apart from the rest of the canyon…all
the while these rocks seem to be in ‘motion’ walking deeper into Zion,
searching for spiritual peace. The
faithful in me sees the rocks as a reflection of stubbornness of humanity and
God’s nurturing care even in hardship…while the writer in me can imagine these
stones animated, coming to life walking as ancient testifiers of Zion’s
path. Each rock is carved with nature’s
story…to think some of these rocks have been here for 150 million years,
changing and evolving yet still grounded to this earth is something we often
overlook when viewing rocky cliffs and terrain – it opens a window into the
soul of this place.
The
road is flat, the canyon deep with light gleaming in revealing colors dancing,
while shadow conflicting with the light, creates a depth of perception and
awareness of the height of the canyon walls.
We
stopped for several photo ops at roadside turnouts, the contrast of color and
light ever changing before my eyes as the sun continued to rise.
We
arrived at the end of the canyon just before nine o’clock, the frosty air
settled at thirty degrees. It is at the
end of the Zion Canyon Road, travelers reach the pinnacle of the canyon
scripture and core of the sanctuary of this place. The Temple of Sinawava is truly a natural
‘temple’- with large oddly shaped giant rock boulders (more like a small
mountain like formation, cut away by erosion.)
This amphitheater in the canyon, coupled with the rock structures of
old, is a place of praise – it has been a gathering place for solemn reflection
for the ancient populations of this region to hardy explorers like John Wesley
Powell. I find my spirit in nature –
this place is a sanctuary that speaks a language of nature, science and
spirit. No better place can the science
of nature and the concept of faith be so interconnected. I see this and it is too complicated and too
precise, even in imprecision and flaws to be devoid of an architect…this place
speaks to me of God’s divine patience in creation, love and care in using
science, painstaking at times to create Zion…if heaven does exist and I believe
it does, a window into that grace and peace, refining fire is found here at
this natural ‘temple.’ If nothing else a
moment at the Temple of Sinawava incites reflection and awareness that life is
a beautiful dance.
My
mom and I decided to trek the paved 2 mile path of the Riverside Trail that
follows the Zion Canyon and Virgin River through several habitats, including a swamp,
ambling falls, grottos and bridges to The Gates of the Narrows. The Narrows is a section of Zion, where the
Virgin River enters a narrow slot canyon of indescribable beauty and
otherworldly charm. The Narrows trail
starts at the end of the Riverside Trail.
The Narrows is not for the faint of heart – it is a harrowing experience
for only experienced hikers (and I’d go further to say swimmers/extreme sports
experts at canyoneering)…you wade knee high – sometimes up to your waist in the
Virgin River, just to access the mystic sights of Zion. Many have risked life and limb for this
experience…the area is prone to flash floods, leading adventurers to die in
hopes of viewing the narrow canyon. I
have a fused neck and rod in my leg so I will step back, turning around from
that part of Zion, allowing its secrets to remain hidden.
The
Riverside hike is one of the easiest hikes in Zion, but in my opinion it is one
of the best in terms of views. You
experience spectacular scenes of the Virgin River, unique sandstone formations,
the drama of the canyon and colorful hues of strata. The swamp is fascinating – because it seems
out of place, but is a result of water runoff from flash floods as there is not
outlet for a portion of the river. Half
of the Virgin River is fed into the endorreheic Great Basin (does not drain
into an ocean) the other portion goes to the Gulf of California. It was in the swamp I saw a Canyon Tree Frog
– one of six species of frogs in Zion.
Zion’s Riverside Trail is also AMAZING because is home to the Zion
Snail, the smallest snail in the world.
This snail is only found in Zion and in the park it is only found in the
Virgin River, on the Hanging Gardens of the Riverside Trail and in the
Narrows. It shows that in a place so
often characterized by its sheer enormity that wonder can be small and finite
as a 1/16 inch snail, that survives from the trickling water of the
sandstone…The Hanging Gardens are aptly named because grasses and some flowers,
as well as lichen grow along the sandstone…water is captured by the sandstone,
which feeds these features with life sustaining nourishment. It shows how interconnected our planet is and
our duty to be stewards working to lessen our own footprint on the earth.
The
Riverside Hike is kid-friendly and a must in Zion.
After
finishing up our morning jaunt, we drove back to Zion Lodge to grab a quick
snack (granola bar and water) before embarking on the Emerald Pools trail.
The
Emerald Pools is one of the most popular hikes in Zion. It runs approximately 3-6 miles round trip
depending on how deep you choose to hike into the trail. There are three Emerald Pools, Lower, Middle
and upper– each offering spectacular views breath defying scenery. This trail is always crowded, but still worth
the effort.
The
trailhead starts across the street from the Zion Lodge. Crossing a bridge over the Virgin River,
hikers are instantly treated to one of the more dramatic canyon vistas, before
the trails climbs up a sandstone path for 1.5 miles to the Lower Emerald
Pool. Aptly named for its emerald tint,
this pool is the lowest in a series of ‘steps’ as water cascades from the
monolith of rock to small alcoves, creating three pools, each on a descending
‘step.’ The waterfall can be heavy and
hard after harsh rains, or trickle down like a lone tear creating a slight
rainbow in the sun. Today the waterfall
was merely a misty veil, still stunning and peaceful.
On
the return trip we decided to cut back to the lodge using the Kayenta Trail,
this path was more secluded from the crowds, scaling the side of the
canyon. It is fascinating to witness the
diversity of plant habitats along the trail, from riparian fern and Yucca to
the prickly pear cactus growing in the green stubborn grasses of small canyon
plateaus that straddle parts of the trail.
I
must admit I felt a bit like Indiana Jones as we ‘canyoneered’ this the twists
and turns in the path, cutting through a small sliver slot in the canyon
wall. The Kayenta trail took us to the
‘Grotto Picnic Area’ a popular spot to eat lunch and also the parking lot for
many hikes including Angel’s Landing.
Angel’s
Landing can be seen from Grotto, the heavenly peak peering out through the rim
line. It does look as though ‘Angels’
sang the sweet song of the canyon, praising the creation, standing guard over
the chasm below ready to take flight to help those in need. Even from a distance the cliff has that
ethereal feel. It is one of the most
popular and most strenuous hikes in Zion defined by steep elevation climbs,
hair raising goose bump invoking heights (I am not super afraid of heights, but
sheer cliffs with little footing does test my nerves)...maneuvered by a series
of constant switchbacks – Walters Wiggles.
I hope to undertake Angel’s Landing on my next trip – I will stay
grounded this time.
We
took a breather by shopping in the Zion Gift Shop, purchasing a tee-shirt and
post cards…with hunger setting after 5 miles of hiking we decided to drive into
Springdale to load up on groceries at Sol Foods. This charming and convenient grocery store
offers quality food at a reasonable price for a resort area, all with an
eco-friendly sustainable focus. We
purchased deli meat and cheese for sandwiches with Gluten Free Bread, as well
as Diet Coke (I know it is bad for me, but I do love a DC every now and then),
Spring Water, and other items for lunch and dinner at our campsite.
Camping
at Watchman is a joy. The sites are
nicely laid out, and the view of the cliffs is tantalizing. After a full day of touring the canyon, I was
ready to relax with a sandwich and the scenery for an hour.
By
3:00 the frigid morning air transitioned to hot, dry heat – the temperature
registered as 62, but the intensity of the sun at a high altitude made it feel
like July or August (80 degrees) in Montana.
My
mom and I went to the Visitor Center to get some hiking information for
Thursday, where we purchased a few items including a ‘Utah Rocks’ hat from the
Zion Natural History Foundation.
Still
eager to explore more of Zion, we took the Pa’rus Trail, which is within walking
distance of our campground. This 2 mile
round trip hike is paved and great for bikers, those with
wheelchairs/disabilities as well as avid walkers. The scenery of Watchman and the Virgin River
is striking, offering some of the best easy access views in Zion. The trail showcases the wide range of
topography and features from cactus and sagebrush, Cottonwood and Juniper to
the monuments of sandstone that look like castles of the ancients.
On
our way back to the campground we stumbled upon a trail that leads out of the
park directly to Springdale – How awesome to be able to walk from your
campground out of the park into town where you can find restaurants, showers, a
Giant Screen movie theater (film about park shows there daily)…how convenient. Zion is truly a walkable, and eco-friendly
park.
With
night settling fast and cold on the horizon, my mom and I drove to the Lodge to
take care of incidental business online you have to tend to when you are on a
road trip (reservations, checking your finances…)
