Into the Virgin Territory: Zion Country

For the past four days my mom and I ventured into the land of promise, promise in hope even in the midst of conflict; order in chaos, splendor in the desert sun.  On Tuesday morning we left our motel in Cedar City and headed south to Zion National Park for three spectacular days. 

I am still marinating on the experience of the solitude, rest and indescribable beauty of Zion and Bryce National Parks.  In the coming days I will be chronicling our adventures.  I will also do features on focus travel tips for both parks when I get back to the east coast.

This land can strike a fire in the soul, kindle the whisper of the wind a symphony of sound that feeds the lungs, the heart beating to the rhythm of this paradise, wild and unbroken, restive in contradiction, a sanctuary of hope amidst the turmoil of fury.  This land is ever-changing, in its measure, each view a note in life’s dance, so extraordinary you can barely grasp the scenery before you…you fall into the next angle of view falling in love to the rhythm of the canyons, restless and wild, peaceful harmony.  I aspire to record each second of my adventures in Zion and Bryce like the palpitations of my heartbeat, captured in each breath of air, yet words fail time and again.  The eyes see the resplendent, fire red, intricate grand beauty and still the rational mind struggles to belief that what lies before them.  You stand in awe, a state of unbelief, awe and humility before succumbing to the grace of the canyons and vast tumultuous Colorado Plateau.  This land is a reflection of our spiritual and physical sojourn in life…the tests and trials, floods and droughts, wind and rain, sun and frost, nights’ dark as the abyss, and the stardust that brings light to hopelessness.  This territory has been covered by inland oceans, parched deserts, wind as strong as a hurricane shaping sand into petrified mesa dunes, the iron fist of the earth’s core uplifting the terrain 10,000 feet revealing sediments of millions of years of sediments.  Each tool in nature’s masterful tool box, used to cut and carve, mold and shape – wind, fire, seismic and volcanic activity, heat and frost…in the end it is water that finely tunes this ever evolving piece of art.  It is the waters of the Virgin River formed millions of years ago, at the nascent eon of this landscape that has sculpted Zion’s temples, turrets and jagged castles – ancient monuments of old.  At first glance the Virgin River appears more like a pristine creek, meandering on life support in the desert country of Southwestern Utah.  It is this river like waters of ‘Eden’ that in its humble ‘virgin’ state slowly and patiently, painstakingly carved the layers of rock of Zion.  This water continues to pump life into Zion Country – it supplies drinking water, irrigation and sustains flora and fauna, all while still cutting and carving.  Like ‘Eden’ – the ‘Virgin River’ is a paradise amidst a parched and restless earth; the river is a place of peace – yet the river cannot be controlled by man…at times the Virgin River rages with flash flooding, swallowing the canyon, destroying roads, inundating structures, drowning with a force unmatched by man.  This land is paradise on earth, yet still we stand on the precipice of hardship and uncertainty.  Life, like creation is not a process molded by smooth passage, it comes from tests, trials, beautiful disasters, patience, steps forward, inching along, carving out our path and living our journey in the shadow and light of Zion Canyon, Bryce Canyon and the Grand Canyon as well as this unbridled and wild country of Utah and Arizona. 

Stay tuned for chronicles from Zion, Bryce, Grand Canyon and beyond 

Land of Deserts, Mountains, Canyons

Utah is a land of arid, expansive dynamic deserts, formidable mountains and intricately winding canyons that light a fire with hues of red, orange, and muted layers of eons of ancient stone, stone that tells a story of time, past, present and future.  It is under the light of this evolving landscape my mom and I ventured south on I-15 from Salt Lake City to Cedar City. 

Today's journey starts at the base of the Wasatch Mountains.  The Wasatch guard the Salt Lake Valley with snow dusted peaks.  We thoroughly enjoyed our week in SLC.  It is congested at times, but the mountains and vast desert landscape make it have the best of city and wilderness; the city has hundreds of recreational trails and activities within half an hour (not to mention skiing, and more skiing). In the past week we explored Antelope Island, Park City, Downtown SLC, Dead Sea Scrolls and hiking.  We also enjoyed 'city sights' that we do not have in Bozeman (a mall - a major mall, In & Out Burger - first time trying out this west coast favorite, and $4 movies at Cinemark).  That being said we are ready to move past the city lights into the great unknown of Utah's unvarnished wilderness, a land of deserts, mountains and canyons.

It was a four hour drive to Cedar City from Salt Lake City.  The scenery on this stretch of I-15 is stunning and diverse to say the least.  The topography is defined by wide open spaces and rugged, arid mountains that soar over 11,000 feet towards the east, with desert for hundreds of miles to the west (the Great Salt Lake Desert then the Escalante Desert).  After living in Montana you accept the fact that some places are so close to heaven in beauty that words cannot describe the sheer magnificence of the place.  I feel this way about Utah's wilderness as well.  We are humbled by nature, it is so sweeping and detailed that you linger in the wonder, grounded by faith and scenery.  Your senses and perception magnified as your feet hit the ground and your eyes get lost in a flawless blue sky. 

Between the towns of Fillmore and Beaver on I-15, the 45-65 mile per hour desert and mountain air crashed into hard forceful wind, so strong that I struggled to hold the road.  Luckily my experience driving in Montana/Paradise Valley where winds breach 55-85 miles per hour helped me get through the stretch.  The winds swelled so much that the dust from the plains that the entire mountain range was covered in minutes in clouds of dust, a hazy fog; giant tumbleweed galloped across the highway at full speed, barely missing our car on numerous occasions. 

The mountains shifted from the rocky, forest covered Wasatch to the red hued high Markagant Plateau as we neared Cedar City.  Cedar City is actually home to junipers, which were used for numerous medicinal reasons by the Navajo. 

Cedar City is a vibrant town located in the southwestern corner Utah on the precipice of the roaring mountains and canyon country.  It is a hub for recreation, arts and education.  Cedar City is home to Southern Utah University...it is nicknamed Festival City, hosting Groovalicious Music and Arts Fest and the Utah Shakespeare Festival.  The primary draw to Cedar City.  It is only twenty miles to Cedar Breaks National Monument (which is at 10,000 feet and the road is still closed a few more weeks - in spite of the 75 degrees down at 6,000 feet) and Parowan Petroglyphs and 68 miles from Zion National Park (Kolob Entrance is closer). 

After checking into our hotel, my mom and I explored the town; we stumbled across a beautiful parkway...we were thrilled to hike 3 miles in the tepid 68 degree weather with blue sky and sun.  The trail delves into the canyon (it is a flat paved trail), surrounding by fire red guardian towers of stone. 

The towers of stone stand like canyons of ancients, each line of stratification a testament from the past, you can nearly make out faces in the stone, guardians of this land, protectors of old in the mythology of this place.  As the wind whistles through the canyon you are haunted by the echo of its song.

We leave Cedar City tomorrow onward to Zion National Park tomorrow.

Park City Rendezvous

March 13 2014:

Today we scaled the canyons and mountains making the forty minute trek to Park City Utah.  Park City and the surrounding Wasatch fronts are considered some of the best skiing in the world: 'Greatest Snow on Earth.'  World-class Olympians like Gold Medalist skier Ted Ligety and Bronze Medalist (bobsledder) Steve Holcomb live and train in Park City.  It was home to the 2002 Olympics and continues to be a hub for international ski competitions.  On average the Wasatch Mountains receive 500 inches of snow - the snow is dry finely packed powder - known as the 'crown snow' of skiing.  I come from a ski town (Bozeman) and although my knee and neck injury prevent me from hitting the slopes I lived in a 'ski culture' of work to ski and ski to live (many Bozemanites follow this mantra; I am hike to live and work to hike :) Park City sits on a hilly bluff 8,000 feet above sea level with some runs in the 11,000-12,000 range.  Park City varies from Big Sky Montana in that it has numerous ski resorts, and is anchored by an actual town.  Big Sky Resort owns the majority of 'Big Sky' and although there are shops and houses it is not a livable town without making weekly runs into Bozeman.

I went up to Big Sky the day before we moved where the snow pack was deep - the deepest it has been in years.  Big Sky Resort (In Madisons/Lone Peak) stays open until Easter typically, Bridger Bowl (in the Bridgers) it depends on the weather.  So I was shocked to see next to nothing in terms of snow at Park City.  They had enough snow to ski, but most of the mountains even at high elevation were dry and bare of snow.  Apparently the drought has been bad this winter - contrasted to the extreme moisture we received in Montana.  So interesting comparison.  The Park City area has Park City Resort, The Canyons and Deer Valley Resort.  There are nearly a dozen ski resorts within an hour of Salt Lake City each with a different flare.  What I like about the town of Park City is its laid back rustic elegance.  You feel the vibrancy and life of the town, with the snobbery and smugness that go along with many high end ski resorts (Aspen for one).  The people were friendly and downtown is lined with art galleries, kitschy, yet fun tourist shops and lots of restaurants.  My favorite part - they have a ski lift that goes right to downtown - so you can go up or down the mountain - hop on or off from downtown - my klutz self took a picture here on the 'slope' and fell down on a piece of ice, hit by a skier not paying attention and I fell to the ground - so my ski injury of the day and the bruises to prove it.

My mom and I walked three miles through the bustling town before grabbing lunch at Irish Pub Flanagans; we wanted to catch the ACC tournament and also KU/OSU game.  I am a huge college basketball fan who has traveled across the country going to games and in a far off time maintaining a blog for The Sporting News, so carving out time for the ACC tourney is as essential as water is in the desert.

After lunch we splurged on homemade ice cream (praline-mint double scoop for me and maple and dulche de leche for my mom) at hip and fun Java Cow before descending back town the mountain.  The Wasatch are rugged and much drier than even the Bridger Mountains, yet equally inviting, with a raw splendor where the sun dances against the tall guardian peaks.  I hope to return someday to Park City.

Salt Lake City Adventures: Antelope Island

March 12 2014:

The radiant light of the sunrise penetrated the shadow of the Salt Lake Valley, casting dynamic shadow and fire glow of red hues on the mountains.  As morning cemented itself, the sun revealed the ceaseless cerulean blue sky, penetrated by the jagged, rugged pinnacles of the snow dappled Wasatch Mountains.  My mom and I decided to take advantage of the beautiful spring weather with an excursion to the Great Salt Lake and Antelope Island State Park.

I have an interesting history with the Great Salt Lake.  In 2004 when I drove through SLC on the way back from my summer sojourn in Yellowstone, the nineteen year old intrepid traveler in me made it a point to see the city's namesake lake.  Coming from the east coast, in my opinion going to Salt Lake City without seeing the lake is like a visit to New York without seeing the Empire State Building.  In this pre-age of ready access to GPS I relied on a crumpled road map and directions from locales.  I was directed to the old Saltair Resort, which in its heyday (1890s-1940s) was the spot in Utah, hosting top acts like Frank Sinatra and Ella Fitzgerald as well as being a resort for bathers.  It is now a ghost, a distant ethereal memory as the lake no longer reaches the shores of Saltair (water fluctuates in Salt Lake, among other factors led to the demise of the resort). 

I pulled into the Saltair Parking lot and followed the signs (THIS WAY; ALL CARS DRIVE THIS WAY) I was skeptical as this was flat, albeit hard sand, but a truck and another car started driving through.  Within moments I found myself stuck in the sand.  The police ended up helping tow me (and another car) out and chaining up the area (they admitted the sign was pointed the wrong way and they too got stuck in their trucks) - it was a terrifying and an amusing experience.  I never did see the lake, only the coarse sinking sand.  I vowed that one day I would return to Salt Lake City and return to set my eyes on the water...

Today nearly 10 years later, I have returned.  Antelope Island is located about twenty-five minutes north of Salt Lake City.  We drove through numerous suburbs before the desert salt air opened up the landscape to an arid supernatural place.  A sparkling crystal blue lake, an inland ocean, spans for miles meeting the distant horizon.  At first glance it is hard to fathom that this lake is the second saltiest body of water in the world (second only to the Dead Sea).  The only life that the lake sustains is the brine shrimp.  The abundance of brine shrimp makes the Great Salt Lake a refuge for birds, with hundreds of thousands of birds resting and refueling in the desert waters. 

The Great Salt Lake is the largest lake west of the MS (though Flathead Lake in Montana is the largest freshwater lake) - for centuries it has intrigued and mystified explorers from Jim Bridger (the first explorer to record the Salt Lake (non-Native American); some Spanish traces may have been in the area)  The water was so salty that Jim Bridger at first believed he had reached the Pacific Ocean - only to realize it was a lake with no outlet...John Muir referred to it as: "one of the great views on the American Continent."

The Great Salt Lake at its current level is 75 miles long and 35 miles wide, this can vary widely depending on the snow pack/drought/rain patterns.  Utah is in the midst of a bad drought and the ranger mentioned that the lake levels are low at this time.

Antelope Island is a refuge on 28,000 acres.  The island is characterized by chiseled dry high-desert peaks, marsh land, sagebrush and grassland, all surrounded by the beauty of the vast blue of the Great Salt Lake, Wasatch Mountains and a wide open sky.  Antelope Island is one of ten islands in the lake and the only one accessed via car (via bridge).  It is the largest of the islands with a population of native pronghorn (the namesake antelope), bighorn sheep, mule deer, countless birds as well as a herd of 800 bison (not original to the island but native to Utah.  The bison have adapted beautifully to the island desert landscape; they are managed by the state with an annual Buffalo Round-up a la Custer State Park in South Dakota.)

As we crossed the bridge to Antelope Island, the smell of thick salt air filled my senses.  For a second I felt I was standing at the precipice of the ocean.  The lake sparkled like diamonds in the sun, quiet and peaceful, as the rhythm of birds sang desert songs as they feed on the tiny brine shrimp.  Life persists even in this American Dead Sea.  Salt in itself is a conundrum...we need it to live, but too much can kill us.  The element is a fusion of two of the most deadly elements...Salt.   

We started our tour of the island at the visitor center.  The helpful rangers filled us in on the history and geology of Antelope Island.  It is amazing how much salt is in the lake.  The ranger showed us a large cup that they filled up with Salt Lake water, the water evaporated within a week leaving 1/3 of the cup with pure salt!  Though the water can only support brine shrimp - perfect for birds, the island has nutrient rich grasses perfect for wildlife. 

The Great Salt Lake has no outlet, so tributary rivers are constantly bringing in small amounts, trace amounts that build up over time as the rivers flow into the lake.  Once in the Great Salt Lake much of the water evaporates leaving the salt behind.  GSL is the remnant of Lake Bonneville; a great ice age lake that rose dramatically from a small saline lake 30,000 years ago...ancient terraces etched into the landscape are reminders of the boundaries of the ancient lake (much larger than the current lake - imagine how great that lake was in size!)

We drove the eastern road from the Visitor Center along the Farmington Bay...this rocky grassland byway is straddled by 6,000 feet mountains, rocky and harsh landscape, the sort of place you can get lost exploring in wonder and curiosity.  Wide Open grazing land is perfect for hooved animals, particularly bison...driving in we saw a lone bison soaking in the sun and eating grass.  We also saw a large coyote running fast towards the shore.  The Salt Lake haunts your senses as if you are in a faraway wilderness...it is a colorful contrast of natural tones, deep blues, vast sandy plain and the deep blue water reflecting the color of the sky. 

We stopped briefly to tour the Fielding Garr Ranch, a historical area that used to be a working ranch and is still used by rangers and park staff as an educational tool and for bison roundup.

My mom and I got out of the car, lacing up our hiking boots and hit a lonely desolate dirt path to the south end of the island.  This hike afforded us wonderful views of the surrounding terrain and the lake.  I took dozens of pictures, each slight difference in angle stirring the adventurer's soul.  This wilderness is dry and harsh, beautiful and resilient.  Half way through the hike we spotted ten bison, some crunching their grassy lunch, others taking a nap.  We later saw fifty bison, some running fast as the wind (Bison are largest N.A. land mammal at two tons, but can run 35+ mph)

Antelope Island has numerous trails, campgrounds, boating and recreation opportunities.  It is desolate relaxation, a step outside the busy SLC freeways into the unvarnished wilderness.  I highly recommend this rendezvous into the land of 'sea' and 'salt.'

Further reading/Interesting links about Great Salt Lake
http://geology.utah.gov/surveynotes/gladasked/gladgsl_islands.htm
http://www.utah.com/stateparks/great_salt_lake_facts.htm
http://stateparks.utah.gov/park/antelope-island-state-park

Salt Lake City: The Dead Sea Scrolls

Out of the desert, in a forgotten windswept place, seemingly lost to time, lies Qumran.  In 1947 in this harsh habitat of caves and petrified sand, rugged land of the Dead Sea desert, a Bedouin sheepherder, the same breed that roamed these hills in the time of Jacob to David to Jesus and the present, lost its sheep.  The sheep ran into a dark lonely cave, obscured from light.  The Bedouin threw a rock inside trying to beckon its sheep out of the cave, only to hear the sound of crashing pottery.  Little did he know in that ordinary moment that he had stumbled onto history, a history connection a world of faith and life from ancient times to the present.  On an ordinary hot day where bones ache and a mouth thirsts, scrolls relating the holy scriptures of Israel - Judaism and Christianity's foundations were found, preserved almost perfectly, untouched for thousands (2000-2500 years!).  I am referring to The Dead Sea Scrolls, which are the old recorded copies of the Hebrew Scriptures in the world (previously the oldest copies dated to 900 A.D., copied by Rabbis and Monks in the early Middle-late 'Dark' Ages.) 

The Bedouin was disappointed at first as he hoped to find gold or silver in the jars, what is the worth of parchment?  In truth this find is more precious than silver or gold - from an archaeological aspect paper from the ancient world is almost obliterated, worn thin by the corrosive nature of time and the elements - copied and copied, but ancient texts rarely found intact from 2000 years ago.  On a spiritual level, these texts are the foundation of Judaism, Christianity and have ties to Islam.  In the countless caves explored at Qumran in the past 60 years, every biblical book from the Old Testament/Hebrew Scriptures has been found except the Book of Esther - and the true miracle - even after 1000 years in gaps of copying (Medieval-Modern translations) the scripture is word for word (meaning is the same, obviously translation can be interpreted slightly differently, but meaning is exact) - what a testament to faith and care of scribes!

For years the historian and Christian in me has longed to see the Dead Sea Scrolls and engage in the history and mystery of the findings at Qumran, but it was out of reach until now.  By mere chance, The Dead Sea Scrolls are in Salt Lake City for a six month stay at The Leonardo Museum.  This exhibit is sponsored by the Israeli Antiquities Museum and numerous Utah and national universities and science/history museums/institutes.  What a blessing to experience the wonder of looking at parchment carefully and meticulously copied and hidden for over 2000 years!

The exhibit opens with an introductory panel about Utah's role in preserving and interpreting the Dead Sea Scrolls particularly - BYU's linguistic cooperation with various Israeli institutions in Jerusalem.  The work of translating the text and preserving the documents is tedious and rewarding.  Some missteps were made in early preservation (scotch tape), but that has been rectified as science and archaeology move forward.  Google has partnered with Israel to scan the scrolls online with translations.  This opening segment opened my eyes to the science, research, history and devotion it takes to tend these scrolls and ancient artifacts.  It also gives a window into the community at Qumran that originally copied the texts, wrote biblical commentary on the texts and their community doctrine.  They had a dedication, some might say obsession to preserving the scripture - it was their foresight, even if accidental - in leaving the jars of parchment in caves that allows us this window into the past and deepening of historical and scriptural faith for the future.

An interactive opening segment walks through the present to the beginnings of Mesopotamian culture (beginnings of Hebrew-Israel/Judaism).  The knowledgeable guide gave us an overview on the exhibit and history (she is trained in archaeology and an expert).  The rest of the tour was completely self-paced, self-guided with an audio tour (optional).  My mom and I spent over three hours in the exhibit.

The exhibit is more than the Dead Sea Scrolls on display, it is an interactive and educational overview of the foundations of Life and Faith and Ancient Times.  It features artifacts pre-David, to an artifact mentioning the 'kingdom of David.' Information about the Mermetaphah Egyptian Scroll that refers to Israel (we have laid waste to Israel, but their seed remains).  It shows how the Hebrews in Canaan lived in houses and structures far different from those in neighboring communities, as well as the influence of folk-idolatry in Hebrew homes, which is a main point of problems in the Bible - as you see with the prophets, to Solomon and beyond...coupled with the monotheism of one true God.  The various storage jars from 3000-2000 years ago was amazing - looking at something that old still intact, it is hard to wrap your mind around.  It is humbling to stand in a crack of history and see into the past.  The highlight for me was seeing large jars (probably for oil) that belonged to Hezekiah - the holy king of Israel in the time of Isaiah (he is also the father of Manasseh - a treacherous king, showing human nature of good, evil, grey conflict of battle is persistent in all times, which good winning out in the end).  It explained in great detail the various periods of the history of conquest from the surrounding nations from pre-David to present day, the division of the northern kingdom of Israel and southern kingdom of Judah with the Assyrians taking over northern Israel, Judah did not fall to the Assyrians but to the Babylonians...also of interest is the artifacts from the rebuilding of the temple (After Babylonian destruction) by Nehemiah...so artifacts that elucidate biblical texts and history and science of the times. 

The Dead Sea Scrolls lie in the heart of the exhibit in a highly controlled level of light and fixed temperature.  A brief overview of the scrolls is given followed by the text in English, as well as the original parchment and a bigger version of the parchment and text.  The paper is very small, smaller than you realize, but the ink looks like it was written in our lifetime...it is dark and although tiny lettering in Aramaic and Hebrew (some Greek has been found on certain documents as well) - it is relatable - you can imagine a scribe writing out the words of their faith, inspired texts from God, the pen hitting the paper, the care of rolling the documents into jars. 

I will not go into details about the community at Qumran, there are many theories (all presented at the exhibit) about who wrote the scrolls, were they all written at Qumran or were some written elsewhere and transferred to Qumran?  What is the mysterious Copper Scroll?  Many believe the community was Essenes, although some believe this was predated by a pottery factory or it was an entirely different group.  What we do know from their text is that they believed that 'Jerusalem' (TPTB) were corrupted by greed and misuse of authority (a common human problem apparently in ancient times and today), they believed they needed to eschew the corruption of Jerusalem and get out into the wilderness where they could commune more perfectly with God.  They were obsessive about purification practices and had some eschatological beliefs...there is a lot we do know about Qumran, but many mysteries remain.  The core of this discovery is the texts and the spiritual continuity of faith in God in ancient times, to the present.  The scriptural texts of Judaism and Christianity that mold our faith and guide our connection with our God are part of Qumran.  These are the sacred texts of our religion and a testament to the universality of God's mercy even in times of corruption, greed and wilderness years.

What is exciting about this exhibit is that many of the texts on display have never been seen by the public before and will not be seen again for years due to light levels.
The texts we saw included Deut., Samuel, Septugaint (Greek version) of Leviticus, Isaiah, letters and also some commentary on text.  It is a life-changing experience for faithful and seekers alike, it reminds us of our humanness throughout time and God's constancy of mercy, love and judgment...it has so many layers of perspective that you take a step back and let it soak in.

A segment on the stand at Masada included lots possibly used for food rationing during the Jewish last stand in the rebellion of 70 AD (approx.) after the destruction of the Temple in Jerusalem by the Romans and the edict from the Emperor that all Jews leave Jerusalem.  This is a tragic event (Masada), but it also reminds us that faith and the world can be in conflict and the power of faith to find resiliency even in impossible situations.  In selfless love, stewardship and conservation of our land, people before profits and hope in desperate times we can be a light that can enlighten the world and shine forth God's mercy...

The exhibit ends with a segment of the an ancient wall from the second temple (Herodian era destroyed by Romans) - hundreds have written messages/prayers on thin parchment stuck in the wall which will be returned to Jerusalem to a Rabbi - who will bless the prayers.  In times of trouble where we tear down and destroy let's rise up in love, compassion and fearless courage to fight for the lesser, not with a sword, but peace.

I highly recommend this exhibit to anyone who has the chance to come to SLC - it is life-changing.  It is fitting that out of the wilderness, this Utah land of salt and desert hills and vast valleys that the Dead Sea Scrolls will be on display - this is America's dead sea and you can almost picture Qumran as I straddled the banks of the Great Salt Lake on Antelope Island (future post)

Further reading:
Dead Sea Scrolls- Life and Faith in Ancient Times (official tour book available from The Leonardo)
The Complete World of the Dead Sea Scrolls (Davies/Brooke)
(I will post additional books after I read them - we bought a ton at the exhibit)

Salt Lake City Adventures: Part I

March 10 2014
Well rested, my mom headed south on I-15 for the four hour trek from Idaho Falls ID to Salt Lake City Utah, where we will spend a week exploring the natural wonders of the Great Salt Lake Desert, the vibrant downtown of the city's desert oasis and scale the mountains to step onto the 'Greatest Snow on Earth' - Utah's Wasatch Mountains and Park City (home to world-class athletes and the 2002 Olympics).

The sun pierced the clouds revealing speckled blue sky as we rolled down I-15 at 75 miles per hour, through the seemingly endless plains, looking to the mountains in the distance.  It is hard to describe the wide open spaces you'll find in Montana-Idaho...to someone from the East Coast - it is so wild, so vast, that you cannot really understand how 'wide open' it is until you stand against the wind on the grassland, searching the horizon for miles and miles.  This is contrasted with distant mountains that touch the sky, guardians of each valley, watchers of the gates of the mountains.  This area is marked by dark volcanic rock - it is hard to believe these rocks were scattered thousands-to-millions of years ago...some of the boulders so perfectly placed they seem as if an architect carved them in stone mere days before you speed past them on the interstate.

An interactive trail through the 'Hells Half Acre' Volcanic Field, located just off the interstate allows passerby to stop from the hum of the highway and breathe in the peculiar wonders of this open country.  The trail only covers a small section of the lava field; it is well worth the stop to see dark charcoal hued volcanic rocks and arid landscape that differs starkly from the terrain of the area around Island Park only 90 miles northeast.  

A steady rain intermingled with blue sky, the mood a gray - cool spring-winter day, with temperatures in the 50s.  Coming from Bozeman - 50 degrees is a virtual heatwave mind you.  With each mile we entered the lonely stretch of beautiful misty mountains covered in snow, the mountains usurping the flatland, the road straddling the acreage of wide open ranch land and daunting mountains.  I have always been attracted to mountains.  There is something about their mystery and stark enigma that lures me into their spell, coupled with the seemingly hidden and forgotten stretches of highway frequented only by cows and the occasional car, the time is ripe to wander and to allow yourself to get lost in the rhythm of the land.

My mom and I cheered as we crossed into Utah - the state's slogan is 'Life Elevated' I visited Utah in 2004.  I had spent the summer as a busser in Yellowstone, and decided to take the long way home, exploring the mountains and desert and canyon country of the most intricately diverse and colorful state of Utah.  The state is home to five national parks, dozens of national monuments and countless state parks.  In the north it has the best snow for skiing on earth (although Big Sky MT would disagree), the largest lake west of the Mississippi (Flathead Lake in MT is number 1 in size as a freshwater lake) to the arches carved by the hands of time and climate in Arches N.P. to the vast impenetrable Canyonlands and beyond...it is a journey set for wonder and magic.

We stopped for lunch at Wendy's in Logan UT before heading into the heart of Salt Lake City.  For our first night in SLC we stayed in Motel 6 downtown, which is conveniently located within walking distance to major city attractions including Temple Square, museums, restaurants and shopping.  After getting settled into our room, we ventured out into the shadow of the man-made sky scrapers of steel and God's formidable snow packed mountains of rock and dirt.  It is a city marked mostly by the architecture of the 1970s (big buildings with a utilitarian clunky design); the architectural highlights of the city center include the historic buildings from the 1800s - 1930s art deco.

The tepid sixty-five degrees made us sing for joy.  In Bozeman a heatwave is anything above 40 degrees.  We do not see temps in the 60s until late April-May, even then the days are mostly cold until June.  As a hiker who loves long walks and exploring a city on foot, the opportunity to walk five miles on the broad city sidewalks allowing the atmosphere of this city on the rise.  Salt Lake City-Park City (40 minutes from downtown) hosted the 2002 Olympic Winter Games - quite a feat. 

We stopped at the Downtown Visitor's Center, which is located adjacent to the Utah Museum of Modern Art.  We loaded up on attraction brochures for Utah and Arizona, before pounding the pavement, touring the Creek Mall and Temple Square.  Temple Square is the headquarters of the Mormon Religion - it is where their Temple is located along with museums, and the world famous Mormon Tabernacle Choir...the highlight of this area (for non-Mormons and Mormons alike) is the Family Tree Center which has billions of records to help trace your genealogy and dig into your roots.  It is free and the researchers on staff are very helpful. 

Mormonism is intrinsically connected with the fabric of Salt Lake City and the surrounding area.  After facing persecution in Illinois and Missouri, the cult of Mormonism moved west under the leadership of Brigham Young.  This hardy group of pioneers settled the great Salt Lake Desert in the 1840s.  It seems a peculiar place to settled on the banks of the second saltiest body of water on earth (behind the dead sea), in a dry, unforgiving desert climate - marked by torrid hot summers and frigid winters.  The Mormons knew that many would not want to contend for this land given its extreme climate/topography.  Looking out over the Salt Lake plain, Brigham Young said 'This is the Place' - and it is a place of beauty - even in the extreme, life persists amidst the harsh desert and mountainous terrain - the land can break the spirit of any man, but is also a place of great beauty and in the death of salt and desert, unexpected life from microscopic bacteria that nourishes the desert, brine shrimp that live in the Great Salt Lake, the abundance of wildlife and the mountains packed with snow.  I am a Christian (Anglican) and although I disagree with Mormon doctrine, I think you are a fool not to see God in the creation of this place, it shows a reflection of our own character, at time corrosive, but refined through life's tests - beauty in the unexpected and lessons learned in trial.  You can see that in this wide open daunting scenery.

We ate dinner at the Chick Fila - this might seem mundane - however Bozeman is 8 hours away from Chick Fila and this was the first taste of that chicken goodness we love in the southeast - in over four years...the fresh squeezed lemonade and grilled chicken strips (we are gluten intolerant so we cannot eat breaded wheat products...)

We settled in for the night into the Motel 6 plotting and planning the remainder of our week in Salt Lake City.  The city is home to world class museums, art galleries, cultural pursuits, ski resorts and nature...
Museums of interest: Utah Museum of Modern Art,  Utah Museum of Art, Natural History Museum, The Leonardo, Hogle Zoo and so much more...stay tuned for more adventures from Salt Lake City.

Across the Country...a journey begins

 March 9 2014:
A Journey Begins...

The mists obscured the rugged Bridger Mountains as a damp drizzle fell onto Gallatin Valley, a gathering storm descending as spring and winter battle in conflict of raging nature.  I too am conflicted as I set out into the great unknown, stepping into a new adventure, traveling across the country, leaving Bozeman Montana for uncharted territory.  The change in the weather reminding me that life is a dance, we move in the motion of the wind and the steadfast surety of the earth's foundation.  It is an ebb and flow, a travail and triumph through wilderness wanderings, lost in the sanctuary of the restless beauty of life.  This journey is stepping out in faith, breathing in the scenery mile by mile. 

Goodbye is bittersweet. I have lived in the shadow and light of this wild wonderland of open country  for four and a half years.  Montana and the Yellowstone Country is the keeper of my heart, able to ignite a resilient fire, a deep connection to the land and its history.  So as the wheels rolled down Main Street Bozeman for the last time I soaked in the ambiance, sad to leave the aura of Yellowstone Country, but excited for the next chapter, the freedom and hope of the future, anticipation of the changing of the guard as we cross the the mountains of past trials to new exploration of distant lands, pioneering the open highway, back roads and God's grand creation.  On this move from Bozeman MT to my home state of North Carolina, my mom and I will have the opportunity to hike remote backcountry, tour bustling cities, learn about the history and culture of America.  Like any wilderness journey, we will be met with obstacles and frustrations, doubts and desperation, but I know in uncertain times faith grows stronger and I find inspiration in resilient beauty of the canyons and mountains, prairies and plains that weather the brunt of snow, ice, rain, heat and wind and are sculpted into awe-inspiring beauty.

For the next two months I will be blogging about the adventures my mom and I take on a 4000 mile journey through 11 states, 5 national parks and countless Americana from kitschy hometown diners to wide open untouched wonder and everything in between.

Step into the great unknown...

~
My mom (Laura) and I had planned on leaving Bozeman on March 10th 2014, but after hearing a late night weather forecast on KBZK by Adam Bell, forecasting extreme flooding and heavy precipitation on Monday we scrambled to move on Sunday.  For twelve hours we moved at a helter-skelter pace, packing up over four years of our life into our Nissan Versa and leaving what we could not fit behind.

We finally left Bozeman just after two o'clock p.m.  The storm clouds hovering with an ominous stare forecasting the impending blizzard, while the persistent sun radiated hope through the cracked clouds.


We drove west on MT-84 towards Norris. The drive bends and breaks through the wide open farm and ranch country of Montana into the Bear Trap Canyon.  The canyon is cut by the mighty Madison River, arguably the premier blue ribbon trout stream in the world (and one of the three forks of the Missouri River).  In the summer, this section of the river is covered in rafts and intrepid tubers, enjoying the sun as they amble down the river surrounded by sheer rock cliffs and big sky. 

Forty minutes into our journey, the Bear Trap Canyon and Madison River open up into a sweeping valley surrounded by several mountain ranges. We made a right turn onto Highway 287, at Norris, a farming community anchored by the namesake Norris Hot Springs.  Norris Hot Springs (not to be confused by the scalding hot thermal basin in Yellowstone National Park) is the 'Water of the Gods,' pristine, soothing hot springs perfect for relaxing sore muscles after a day of hiking, skiing or rafting.  Norris Hot Springs is home to the 40 mile grill - which serves organic food locally sourced within a radius of forty miles of Norris.  NHS is also a watering hole for amazing music from the beat sounds of Montana funk to roots/Americana. 

 The rugged wide open country of Montana dazzles even in the cold damp, the spires of the Rocky Mountains (Tobacco Root, Madison Range and valley after vast valley...) stood as beacons, covered in thick snow.  Ironic that these monoliths of stone that have brought men to their knees, can be obscured, veiled into the invisibility cloak of something as flimsy and unpredictable as vaporous fog.

As we neared Ennis Montana the mountains peeked in and out of the clouds and fog.  Near Ennis the valley is largely untouched by snow, the moisture evaporated by the sun in last week's 'warm up' to 49 degree temps.  The volatility of this cold snow colliding with warm weather back to cold snow blizzard conditions seesaws, flooding and freezing.  You can not fully trust the moods of the weather here.  It is ever-changing, something we would quickly be immersed in.

We stopped briefly in Ennis.  This quaint historic town is known as the 'Fly-Fishing Capital of the World' and for good reason.  The Madison River powers through Ennis, allowing fishermen to fish in town, Ennis also has ready access to the Jefferson Rivers and is only 70 odd miles from Yellowstone National Park.  Ennis is one of my favorite spots in Montana and I will do a feature on it in a future blog post once I am settled on the east coast.

As we left Ennis the area I refer to as 'The wide-rugged mountain country' takes hold of your soul, with expansive virgin vistas - ambling plains of sagebrush and prairie grasses, cattle and sheep, mule deer and elk set below a ceaseless sky, cradled by mountains in every direction.  This is the sort of country you can get lost in.  In the summer it is hot, torrid and dry, the wind, idea for cross country skiing...as we neared Madison Canyon (a narrow beautiful canyon carved by Madison river and geologic forces of volcanism, earthquakes and erosion; Madison Canyon earthquake of 1959 - I will do a post on this in the future).  Given the increasingly violent weather - heavy snow blanketing the landscape into whiteout conditions we used the 287 detour to Island Park Idaho, bypassing West Yellowstone.

The Gravelly and Madison Mountain Ranges peered through the clouds as snow pounded the ground with Jack Frost's breath.  Whiteout conditions forced me to drive with extreme caution.Crossing into Idaho, I left Montana with a piece of my heart for safe keeping and memories to last a lifetime.  We reached the mountain resort area of Island Park just before four o'clock.  Island Park holds a special connection in our western journey.  It was August 17 2002 that my mom and I landed in Bozeman and drove to Island Park Idaho to stay a week.  It was during this trip (I was attending Montana State - 2300 miles west from my hometown of Raleigh), that I first became enamored with Yellowstone and this far country.  That trip still holds thousands of picture memories in my mind, from the elk rut and getting lost in the Tetons...I know many more memories await us on this voyage.

I was astonished to find Henry's Fork Caldera completely frozen over as we entered Idaho, covered in thick snow.  This Lake is the remnant of the Yellowstone Volcano's Henry's Fork eruption.  In fact this entire area of Idaho is lined with calderas from past eruptions, a reminder that even a volatile past can yield a beautiful resplendent, even if rugged future.  The whiteout conditions continued until Ashton - one of the potato capitals of the world (got to love a good Idaho potato) - the rich volcanic soil in Idaho makes it the ideal spot for agriculture, particularly potatoes! 

The mountains leveled out into the Snake River Basin - a large plateau of cease plains dotted with distant snow capped mountains - this is the heart of agriculture - seeing the work that goes into producing our food and the care and dedication these farmers have to their craft gives you a deeper understand of the inter-connectivity of life and our reliance on quality organic farming/sustainable practices.  It reminds you our food does not magically appear on grocery store shelves - farmers work is the food that feeds the world...it is very humbling. 

We arrived at Idaho Falls just after dusk.  The town of 56,000 garners its name from the rambling falls of the Snake River in the heart of downtown.  Idaho Falls is an industrial town, not particularly pretty, but full of hardworking Americans and farmers.  It is the largest city in the area, servicing 100 miles of farming/ranching communities.  It is one gateway to Yellowstone (although I recommend flying into Bozeman - prettier way into the park); Idaho Falls is only 90 minutes from the otherworldly Craters of the Moon National Park and only a few hours away from the remote and spectacular beauty of Idaho's Sawtooth Mountains.

Onward to Salt Lake City...