Restarting this fire!

I have been a ghost on Blogger for nearly eight months - I have been traveling, starting a new job and finishing a book as well as studying history and English at a winter sunrise pace.  I am going to start blogging again about Travel and other features about history, life and musings...including finally posting my travel diary from the Western adventure!  Thank you for stepping into the great unknown.

Adele :)  Merry Christmas and keep following - starting this fire again and it won't stop. 

The land of golden reds: Zion to Bryce

3/20/14:

          Thursday dawn revealed a soft fire glow of reds and oranges over Watchman.  We got a later start, hanging out at the campground until 11:30 relaxing.  My mom and I enjoyed the scenery of the Pa’rus trail so much that we hiked it again, this time I brought my video camera to capture the vivid panorama.  We then went to the Zion Human History Museum, where we walked the path back in time to ancient culture of the Pueblo people, referred to by the Navajo as the Anasazi meaning ‘The Ancient Ones.’  The Pueblo lived for nearly 1300 years in this land, creating a complex culture and system of agriculture.  Other tribes including the Paiute and Hopi, among others called Zion home.  Native American culture is interwoven into the fabric of the land.  Their trials and triumphs reminders of our limitations – overgrazing and overuse of resources including deforestation caused problems for the Pueblo – they adapted, but historically and now we must nurture the land and let it nurture us. 

In the Museum there is a wonderful 22 minute film that details the geologic and human forces that shaped and continue to shape Zion.

My mom and I are huge college basketball fans – I used to write an award-winning blog for The Sporting News and basketball is a huge passion – so suffice it to say March Madness boils my blood – giving me a rush of adrenaline.  I willingly have sacrificed my usual television b-ball viewing binge for the wonder of Zion, but tonight my mom and I decided to haunt the local Zion Brewpub to grab a burger while watching games.  This is our final toast to Zion.  Tomorrow morning we pack up camp and leave for Bryce Canyon National Park.  Zion has etched itself on my heart – I will return…in the meantime follow the blog for more posts about our travels across country and also more feature articles about Zion and beyond.

3/21/14

          “One more drive up the canyon, one more star kiss before the dawn…the moon and sun collide and I’m searching for a home, in this temporary sanctuary I lay my head, with the dawn of inspiration in spite of life’s dread, one more time up the canyon, twists and curves, I am refined by desperation and hope, love and peace as I turn a corner in my soul, learning in the shadow to seek the light, hungering for the thirst of flesh, but it is the water that gives my spirit flight…”

          Today is our final morning in Zion.  My mom and I enjoyed a scrumptious breakfast at Café Soleil (Southwest Scrambler and home roasted potatoes, paired with caramel lattes) before packing up camp. 

          It is hard to say goodbye to Zion.  It has been a life-changing experience.  Still goodbye is sweeter knowing we still have the opportunity to chart the Zion to Mount Caramel Road. Considered a feat of engineering, the road was proposed by the Utah Parks Company that managed tourism in the park during the 1920s as a way to link the seemingly impenetrable eastern edge of the park to connector roads to Bryce Canyon National Park and Grand Canyon National Park.  This pipe dream became a reality when work began on the winding road of switchbacks and tunnels in 1927.  The road was completed in 1930 and remains one of the prettiest drives in America (I would stack it up with the Beartooth Highway, Blue Ridge Parkway, Going to the Sun Road and the other stunning winding roads and byways I have traversed.

          Snaking through otherworldly canyons, blasted tunnels, Zion’s Z-MC Road is a window into another layer of Zion’s geologic history.  Though formed by similar natural forces, the eastern edge of the park has a unique character and charm, with scenery far different from the inner canyon.  This landscape curves into petrified windswept sand dunes, strange rock outcropping(s) and methodical and intrinsically linear rock wall mesas.  The massive monuments of smooth, colorful sandstone is known as ‘Slick rock: large smooth swaths of rock,’ because it looks smooth and slick.  The most iconic slick rock in Zion is Checkerboard Mesa, defined by the patterns of crisscrossed lines that mimic a giant checkerboard.

          Exiting the Canyon, the road hits the Highway 89 junction.  I paused for a moment to survey the sign: South to Grand Canyon – North to Bryce Canyon. Standing at the crossroads of majestic scenery and the promise of adventure strikes a fire to your heart. Here the car is stalling on a seemingly lost byway, the precipice of nature’s best secrets and hidden beauty revealed in the most remote and wild of places.

          As we headed north to Bryce Canyon National Park, the setting quickly shifts from the windswept sandstone slick rock dunes and narrow canyons to open sagebrush country, distant plateaus and snow-capped mountains.  The terrain is all shaped by the uplift of the Colorado Plateau, yet the territory is ever-changing – it boggles the mind and excites the soul. 

          I went to Bryce ten years ago and fell in love with color and personality of the unusual canyon – it is a canyon, but more of a gateway to another world, with hoodoo formations, grotto doors and passages, the storyteller in me can only dream of its secrets…it is an wonderland of color and character…this is my mom’s first trip to Bryce and I cannot wait to show here the sites.

          The drive from Zion to Bryce takes roughly two hours.  This lonely road has a beautiful desolation in the hum of the tires hitting the pavement at sixty miles per hour.  The road to Bryce (Highway 89-Highway 12) was practically devoid of traffic, making for a relaxing and peaceful journey, surrounded by idyllic rambling scenery.

Bryce Canyon National Park is situated in a remote rural area of central Utah off All-American Road Highway 12.  Bryce is a crown jewel, hidden in the hills, a lost treasure in the veil of the wide open plateau.  As we turned onto Highway 12, the prairie and mountains are beautiful, but seemingly ordinary for the high country.  It is hard to fathom the wonder and spectacular display of color, rock art, ‘heaven’s symphony on earth’ obscured by thick forests…Bryce Canyon is a lost world, a fairyland – where myth and reality collide in a tapestry of mystery, supernatural awe, color and light.  To describe Bryce is impossible.  Staring at the deep colors, so brilliant it still haunts the memory with vivid clarity, I struggled to believe what lay before me was real.  It is a wonderland – a fantastical display of hoodoo like spires, grotto doorways to ‘mystic kingdoms’ – it is a place you have to experience to believe.

Turning onto Highway 12 in the Dixie National Forest, the first glimpse of the ‘lost kingdom’ of Bryce is revealed in the Red Rock Canyon.  Known as one of the most photographed spots in Utah, the canyon is a collection of deep vibrant red spires and hoodoos that resemble the gates to an ancient city, the spires the guards of the castle and the domed formations like temples of old.  The red hues is contrasted by deep evergreen pines and flora. 

My mom did a short walk on a paved trail straddling the canyon.  Every glance leaving me with renewed wonder, my imagination on fire.  These rocks are alive, they are so meticulous in their creative shapes and daunting stature, you feel as though you have taken the first step into a fantasy novel; it is a history of time, these rocks nature’s artistic time capsule. 

Continuing on Highway 12 we turned onto junction 63, driving through ‘Bryce City,’ a hamlet of hotels and gift shops to accommodate travelers on their sojourn before entering the park.

We started our park tour at the Bryce Visitor Center.  The Center includes a film about the ecology, geology and human history of the park as well as a fascinating museum that details the complex geology of Bryce in ‘Lehman’s Terms.’  The museum also focuses on human history, including the ancestral natives of the park, wildlife and Bryce’s night sky.  Bryce has some of the darkest night skies in the world, hosting a Night Sky Festival annually.  On a clear day you can see forever, well at least nearly 100 miles into the distance across the vast plateau.

The geology and human history of the Colorado Plateau is fascinating.  The various regions each connected to similar uplift, sedimentation and erosion, all the while geologic region of the plateau is strikingly unique.  Bryce Canyon is a story of climate change, fault uplift and erosion.  Bryce’s famous spires ‘hoodoos’ are formed when ice and rainwater erode weak limestone that makes up a layer of rock known as the Claron Formation.   Bryce’s geology is complex and diverse, but at its core are patterns of sedimentation and erosion…ice and rain continue to transform Bryce’s dramatic landscape today, cutting away at the rocks like a builders awl and hack, slowly and meticulous carving.  (I will do a series of geology articles about the Colorado Plateau in the coming month as I continue to learn more about the science behind the landscape.)

Bryce Canyon is technically not a canyon, but an amphitheater, a wide open collection of a city of hoodoos – a civilization in stone.  So what exactly is a hoodoo – a spell – a charm?  In geologic terms: “Hoodoos are tall skinny spires of rock that protrude from the bottom of arid basins and "broken" lands. Hoodoos are most commonly found in the High Plateaus region of the Colorado Plateau and in the Badlands regions of the Northern Great Plains. While hoodoos are scattered throughout these areas, nowhere in the world are they as abundant as in the northern section of Bryce Canyon National Park. In common usage, the difference between Hoodoos and pinnacles or spires is that hoodoos have a variable thickness often described as having a "totem pole-shaped body." A spire, on the other hand, has a smoother profile or uniform thickness that tapers from the ground upward.” http://www.nps.gov/brca/naturescience/hoodoos.htm

The hoodoos at Bryce instantly casts a spell of enchantment – the color brilliant and lucid, while the otherworldly shapes take on forms like watchmen, castles and crowns, balconies and fortresses and a stone army.  Myths can be created, woven to put together the mystery of this amphitheater of color and hoodoo mazes.  The storyteller in me sees a thousand possibilities of inspiration for the backstory of this canyon – ancient civilizations, elves and fairies, kings and queens, a secretive race that lives in the rocks, entering through the natural arches and grotto doorways…Bryce is a place of inspiration and ceaseless wonder.  You praise the creator and the science behind the creation of this treasure hidden in the hills of Utah.

What is striking to me about Bryce is the sheer altitude – you straddle 7,000 to 9,000 feet – Yellowstone is mostly in this range – putting into perspective how high this area of the plateau is.  Bryce’s altitude makes it colder on average than Zion or Arches…the park receives over 100 inches of snow each winter, while the arid climate keeps the temperatures milder than other similar topographies in this elevation.  Bryce is bequeathed with four seasons, each adding a contrast of perspective to the life of the landscape.  On this trip, snow has melted from the trails and roads, but still dances on the spires – the opposing spectrum of deep reds and oranges against pristine white makes for spectacular imagery. 

We stopped at each vista, breathing in the color and allowing the light of the sun warm our skin.  I found myself allowing myself to ‘fall’ into the blast of color and ponder each strange and exquisite mold of rock in the amphitheater.  One of my favorite viewpoints was the expanse of Rainbow Point, as well as The Natural Bridge (an arch).  We capped off our tour of the park with a short, but stunning hike on the ‘canyon’ rim from Sunset to Sunrise Point.  Bryce has ample hiking opportunities.  The Navajo Loop is considered one of the prettiest hikes in Utah!

Bryce Canyon is home to an abundance of wildlife.  We were fortunate enough to see several pronghorn grazing in a meadow, as well as the persevering prairie dog.

Prairie Dogs are one of my favorite animals.  They have a complex language and social structure and are critical species to the prairie and mixed topography regions of the Rockies.  Prairie Dogs are hunted by ranchers, poisoned because of misinformation about dangers prairie dogs pose to cattle and farming.  In truth prairie dogs conserve water, help build a stronger ecosystem and pull up the more nutrient rich grasses for cattle…Utah had taken steps to protect the white tailed prairie dog.  One of the ways to help ensure the longevity of Utah’s prairie dog is to symbolically adopt a prairie dog from the Bryce Natural History Association…

Link detailing Paiute legend about Bryce's Hoodoos: http://www.nps.gov/brca/historyculture/americanindianhistory.htm

Paiute Indians occupied the area around what is now Bryce Canyon starting around 1200 A.D. The Paunsaugunt Plateau was used for seasonal hunting and gathering activities, but there is no evidence of permanent settlements.

The legend of Bryce Canyon was explained to a park naturalist in 1936 by Indian Dick, a Paiute elder who then lived on the Kaibab Reservation:

"Before there were any Indians, the Legend People, To-when-an-ung-wa, lived in that place. There were many of them. They were of many kinds – birds, animals, lizards and such things, but they looked like people. They were not people. They had power to make themselves look that way. For some reason the Legend People in that place were bad; they did something that was not good, perhaps a fight, perhaps some stole something….the tale is not clear at this point. Because they were bad, Coyote turned them all into rocks. You can see them in that place now all turned into rocks; some standing in rows, some sitting down, some holding onto others. You can see their faces, with paint on them just as they were before they became rocks. The name of that place is Angka-ku-wass-a-wits (red painted faces). This is the story the people tell."

Fremont and Anasazi people occupied the portion of the Colorado Plateau near Bryce Canyon from around 200 A.D. until 1200. The Fremont were more to the north and west, with the Anasazi more to the south and east. There is recently discovered evidence of the mixing of these two cultures on the Kaiparowits Plateau.

Native Americans first occupied the Colorado Plateau 12,000 years ago, but no evidence of their activities has yet been found on the Paunsaugunt Plateau.

My mom and I booked a room at the Best Western Grand in Bryce City.  After roughing it camping for a few nights in sub-freezing temps, I am ready for a nice hotel room.  The Grand did not disappoint.  It is one of the nicest chain hotels I have stayed in.  The rustic modern architecture fits the mood of the plateau and canyon, while our room was clean, with comfortable beds, and a deluxe bathroom. 

After relaxing in the room (watching March Madness) we drove across the street to world-famous Ruby’s Inn, a Bryce institution.  In 1916 Reuben and Minnie Syrett moved to Southern Utah to establish a ranch near the entrance to Bryce Canyon.  The Syretts fell in love the canyon and began to promote tourism in the area, building a small lodge called ‘Tourist Rest’ in 1919.  In 1923 Bryce Canyon became a National Monument beginning a tourism tradition for the Syrett family that continues to this day.  The Syrett family continue to own and operate Ruby’s Inn as well as the Best Western, and several restaurants, gas stations and a rental car terminal to accommodate travelers visiting the park.  The Syretts understand top notch hospitality and their passion for the park shines through from Ruby’s General Store to their hotels to the cowboy buffet dining experience. 

My mom ordered a burger and I got a chicken dinner with a baked potato.  For dessert we indulged in a sundaes. 

Tomorrow we leave Bryce for a journey into wilds of southern Utah into Arizona’s Painted Desert, Navajo Country and the Grand Canyon… 

Lost worlds are right in front of us, magic is kindled in the sun as a flare of enchantment strikes a fire to this vast masterful land. How great is the God of creation and in these unbridled lands the wind kicks up and you are content to dwell in the wonder of such a strange and magnificent place.

Zion National Park: A Desert that can strike a fire in the SOUL

3/19/2014:

          Seven a.m., the sun yawning as it struggles to rise above the soaring 6,500+ Watchman.  Zigzagging the tent zipper, I opened a window to the majesty grandeur of Zion.  I have never camped in a spot that is so full of beauty.  Yellowstone campgrounds are peaceful and near the park’s vast wonders, still Zion’s Watchman rivals the view from the campsite of anywhere else I have camped.  You step out of your tent and are instantly met by the fire-red ancient canyon monuments of Zion.  It kicks your heartbeat up a notch, and you breathe in deep.  Any troubles are washed away by the warm glow of the sun reflecting on the rock’s color palette and nightmares transformed by dreams of a paradise on earth – I literally struggled to get out of my tent, still lost in the view outside the door.  After gathering my strength I took two long steps outside; the air still cold at 33 degrees.  After getting changed, my mom and I drove into Springdale for breakfast and coffee at the funky eclectic Café Soleil coffeehouse.  Café Soleil has instantly become a favorite haunt.  They specialize in rich coffee, southwest inspired breakfasts, open air lunches and delicious desserts.  The café is decorated with colorful artwork by local photographer David West and painter Linda Pirri. I fell in love with Linda’s use of color and fluidity of motion in her portrayals of horses on the run.  The café has scrumptious food and a down to earth artsy vibe, welcoming strangers into the community with an open door.  My mom got the frittata with Chile sauce and a caramel latte…I enjoyed a cinnamon tinged Mexican Hot Chocolate.  While in the café I purchased several cards by David West and also a local indie band’s CD.  Red Rock Rondo writes music inspired by Zion Canyon.  When I popped in the CD a few days later, I fell in love with their folk/swing/Zion gypsy sound – and storytelling perspective.

Fueled after the hearty breakfast, my mom and I ventured into Zion Canyon for a day of hiking and exploration. 

Zion is a biblical metaphor* translating to a place of ‘peace, sanctuary, and spiritual reflection…a holy place…’ It only takes one step into the shadow and splinter of luminous light filtering through the jagged rocks of Zion Canyon’s towering walls to experience a spiritual transformation.  The hearts of the faithful soar in the resplendent grandeur of God’s creation, all the while falling to one’s knees in humble acceptance of our own limitations, a paradox of self-awareness and willingly submitting to God’s care.  Those who do lack faith in a great Creator, cannot help but be stirred by the soul to acknowledge the mystery and majesty of nature.  Science and creation are not at odds.  Faith, hope, adversity, resilience, death and life are intrinsically part of this canyon paradise. Zion is a place of peace, a restless peace, a peace that beckons wonder, awe and praise.  The beauty pierces our stubborn cynical armor.  Those that enter this land with the expectation of self-sufficiency, relying on their strength, will fall to their knees.  Zion like the paradise of ‘Eden’ is not a place man can tame or control.  Those that test the land boasting with arrogant assumptions, will struggle.  The canyon is a beautiful place, still its peace is a wild dangerous beauty, something to breathe in and bask in, ‘this is hallowed ground,’ where you tread with caution and wonder, praise and humble peace.  Zion can be as calm as still waters or as furious, flash floods unexpectedly drowning the land, wind that bruises, cold frost in the dark side of the moonlight, after sweltering hot, torrid, mouthwatering heat.  It is this confluence of environments, fury and rage releasing the drought with rain that reflects creation in motion, science and faith colliding into one.  So we tread with wide-eyed wonder, content to stand in the shadow of the canyon.

The character of Zion National Park is a landscape of mountains and canyons that converse with the clouds, buttes, windswept petrified sand dunes, and mesas, slot canyons that narrow into hidden worlds, natural arches and forests.  The park lies at the confluence of several unique geomorphic patterns, including the edge of the Colorado Plateau, Great Basin and Mojave Desert.  I am still learning about the fascinating interwoven geology that shaped this landscape, from the uplift of the Colorado Plateau, to the carving of erosion from the Virgin River, winding slowly and patiently cutting and carving the canyon(s)…I will be posting a series of geological and natural history posts in the future as I unravel the mystery and search for answers to the history of Zion. 

Zion National Park was founded in 1909 as ‘Mukuntuweap National Monument’ (thought to be an ancient Native American name for the region) before being expanded as ‘Zion National Park’ in 1919. The park spans 229 square miles and includes two major units: Kolob Canyon, located in the northwestern corner of the park; Zion Canyon and the Mount Carmel road are in the heart of the park.  Zion is small compared to Grand Canyon (1 million acres) and Yellowstone (2.1 million acres), but what it lacks in size, the park makes up in jaw-dropping scenery.  The majority of Zion’s terrain is only accessible backpacking and hiking.  There are three main road systems in Zion: Kolob Canyons Scenic Drive (10 miles round trip), Zion Canyon Scenic Drive (24 miles round trip) and engineering marvel of the winding Zion to Mount Carmel Road (connects the heart of Zion with Highway 89 to the east, allowing tourists to easily travel to Bryce Canyon NP to the north and Grand Canyon to the south). 

Coming from Yellowstone that hundreds of miles of roads (and roads are less than 15% of the park) – Zion’s small size is a nice surprise.  I love that Yellowstone is so large – with miles of terrain to discover, but Zion is a place equally as striking and its compacted size really allows you an opportunity to step off the beaten path and fall into the foundation of the land.  Zion’s small size makes it difficult for the roads to accommodate travelers in the peak season.  In 2000 Zion began closing the road except for park shuttles – helping to prevent pollution and offer a more relaxing and logistically sound method of transporting over 2 million visitors to the park each year.  We are arriving in Zion on the tail end of the off seasons, so shuttles are not in session for another few weeks.  Even now parking lots fill up quickly.  I think the concept of shuttles and carpools in National Parks is one of the most progressive steps to protecting our natural treasures for years to come.  I think this concept can be applied to many other avenues than parks – the shuttle is stress free and offers visitors a chance to enjoy the park.

As we curved around the bend I started panting, overwhelmed by the sheer drama that lay before me.  I still shiver as I reflect on images of Zion etched in my memory.  Grand, Expansive, Narrow, Vast, Daunting, Colorful, Shadow, Light, Dance of Rocks, Mystery, Fortitude, Temples, Fortresses, Castles, fertile, desert…these are only a few simple words that describe the diversity of topography.  All the dictionaries and thesauruses, languages and art can never fully conceptualized what the eyes strain to see and the soul perceives at Zion.  It is unreal – WOW – I said that word at least twenty times as we entered the nascent doorway to the canyon.  Wow.

Entering Zion Canyon reminds me of entering a fairy tale or fantasy, the 6,000-8,000 foot sandstone cliffs run a gorge of half a mile apart for twelve miles before narrowing into a slot canyon.  You imagine that you have stumbled onto a hidden world lost and found, the remnants of an ancient civilization or perhaps a portal of some kind.  You feel the spirit of the place in the palette of color – a spectrum of deep reds, oranges, yellows and creamy whites.  The stone so perfectly carved it had to be built by giants or Angels…God, in His creation molding this spot for a paradise on earth.  The patterns of the rock so repetitive, the monuments of stones like fortresses and castles…even with scientific explanation, you see the divine hand in the science, it is a monument of creation – a testimony to the hardships of life and resilient beauty of each breath and peace even in the fire of a thousand storms…

I stopped to take a photograph of the ‘Court of the Patriarchs’ – three towers of stone named after Abraham, Jacob and Moses…These pillars, jagged and contrasted by light and dark stand in concert, yet apart from the rest of the canyon…all the while these rocks seem to be in ‘motion’ walking deeper into Zion, searching for spiritual peace.  The faithful in me sees the rocks as a reflection of stubbornness of humanity and God’s nurturing care even in hardship…while the writer in me can imagine these stones animated, coming to life walking as ancient testifiers of Zion’s path.  Each rock is carved with nature’s story…to think some of these rocks have been here for 150 million years, changing and evolving yet still grounded to this earth is something we often overlook when viewing rocky cliffs and terrain – it opens a window into the soul of this place.

The road is flat, the canyon deep with light gleaming in revealing colors dancing, while shadow conflicting with the light, creates a depth of perception and awareness of the height of the canyon walls. 

We stopped for several photo ops at roadside turnouts, the contrast of color and light ever changing before my eyes as the sun continued to rise. 

We arrived at the end of the canyon just before nine o’clock, the frosty air settled at thirty degrees.  It is at the end of the Zion Canyon Road, travelers reach the pinnacle of the canyon scripture and core of the sanctuary of this place.  The Temple of Sinawava is truly a natural ‘temple’- with large oddly shaped giant rock boulders (more like a small mountain like formation, cut away by erosion.)  This amphitheater in the canyon, coupled with the rock structures of old, is a place of praise – it has been a gathering place for solemn reflection for the ancient populations of this region to hardy explorers like John Wesley Powell.  I find my spirit in nature – this place is a sanctuary that speaks a language of nature, science and spirit.  No better place can the science of nature and the concept of faith be so interconnected.  I see this and it is too complicated and too precise, even in imprecision and flaws to be devoid of an architect…this place speaks to me of God’s divine patience in creation, love and care in using science, painstaking at times to create Zion…if heaven does exist and I believe it does, a window into that grace and peace, refining fire is found here at this natural ‘temple.’  If nothing else a moment at the Temple of Sinawava incites reflection and awareness that life is a beautiful dance.  

My mom and I decided to trek the paved 2 mile path of the Riverside Trail that follows the Zion Canyon and Virgin River through several habitats, including a swamp, ambling falls, grottos and bridges to The Gates of the Narrows.  The Narrows is a section of Zion, where the Virgin River enters a narrow slot canyon of indescribable beauty and otherworldly charm.  The Narrows trail starts at the end of the Riverside Trail.  The Narrows is not for the faint of heart – it is a harrowing experience for only experienced hikers (and I’d go further to say swimmers/extreme sports experts at canyoneering)…you wade knee high – sometimes up to your waist in the Virgin River, just to access the mystic sights of Zion.  Many have risked life and limb for this experience…the area is prone to flash floods, leading adventurers to die in hopes of viewing the narrow canyon.  I have a fused neck and rod in my leg so I will step back, turning around from that part of Zion, allowing its secrets to remain hidden.

The Riverside hike is one of the easiest hikes in Zion, but in my opinion it is one of the best in terms of views.  You experience spectacular scenes of the Virgin River, unique sandstone formations, the drama of the canyon and colorful hues of strata.  The swamp is fascinating – because it seems out of place, but is a result of water runoff from flash floods as there is not outlet for a portion of the river.  Half of the Virgin River is fed into the endorreheic Great Basin (does not drain into an ocean) the other portion goes to the Gulf of California.  It was in the swamp I saw a Canyon Tree Frog – one of six species of frogs in Zion.  Zion’s Riverside Trail is also AMAZING because is home to the Zion Snail, the smallest snail in the world.  This snail is only found in Zion and in the park it is only found in the Virgin River, on the Hanging Gardens of the Riverside Trail and in the Narrows.  It shows that in a place so often characterized by its sheer enormity that wonder can be small and finite as a 1/16 inch snail, that survives from the trickling water of the sandstone…The Hanging Gardens are aptly named because grasses and some flowers, as well as lichen grow along the sandstone…water is captured by the sandstone, which feeds these features with life sustaining nourishment.  It shows how interconnected our planet is and our duty to be stewards working to lessen our own footprint on the earth. 

The Riverside Hike is kid-friendly and a must in Zion.

After finishing up our morning jaunt, we drove back to Zion Lodge to grab a quick snack (granola bar and water) before embarking on the Emerald Pools trail. 

The Emerald Pools is one of the most popular hikes in Zion.  It runs approximately 3-6 miles round trip depending on how deep you choose to hike into the trail.  There are three Emerald Pools, Lower, Middle and upper– each offering spectacular views breath defying scenery.  This trail is always crowded, but still worth the effort. 

The trailhead starts across the street from the Zion Lodge.  Crossing a bridge over the Virgin River, hikers are instantly treated to one of the more dramatic canyon vistas, before the trails climbs up a sandstone path for 1.5 miles to the Lower Emerald Pool.  Aptly named for its emerald tint, this pool is the lowest in a series of ‘steps’ as water cascades from the monolith of rock to small alcoves, creating three pools, each on a descending ‘step.’  The waterfall can be heavy and hard after harsh rains, or trickle down like a lone tear creating a slight rainbow in the sun.  Today the waterfall was merely a misty veil, still stunning and peaceful. 

On the return trip we decided to cut back to the lodge using the Kayenta Trail, this path was more secluded from the crowds, scaling the side of the canyon.  It is fascinating to witness the diversity of plant habitats along the trail, from riparian fern and Yucca to the prickly pear cactus growing in the green stubborn grasses of small canyon plateaus that straddle parts of the trail.

I must admit I felt a bit like Indiana Jones as we ‘canyoneered’ this the twists and turns in the path, cutting through a small sliver slot in the canyon wall.  The Kayenta trail took us to the ‘Grotto Picnic Area’ a popular spot to eat lunch and also the parking lot for many hikes including Angel’s Landing. 

Angel’s Landing can be seen from Grotto, the heavenly peak peering out through the rim line.  It does look as though ‘Angels’ sang the sweet song of the canyon, praising the creation, standing guard over the chasm below ready to take flight to help those in need.  Even from a distance the cliff has that ethereal feel.  It is one of the most popular and most strenuous hikes in Zion defined by steep elevation climbs, hair raising goose bump invoking heights (I am not super afraid of heights, but sheer cliffs with little footing does test my nerves)...maneuvered by a series of constant switchbacks – Walters Wiggles.  I hope to undertake Angel’s Landing on my next trip – I will stay grounded this time.

We took a breather by shopping in the Zion Gift Shop, purchasing a tee-shirt and post cards…with hunger setting after 5 miles of hiking we decided to drive into Springdale to load up on groceries at Sol Foods.  This charming and convenient grocery store offers quality food at a reasonable price for a resort area, all with an eco-friendly sustainable focus.  We purchased deli meat and cheese for sandwiches with Gluten Free Bread, as well as Diet Coke (I know it is bad for me, but I do love a DC every now and then), Spring Water, and other items for lunch and dinner at our campsite.

Camping at Watchman is a joy.  The sites are nicely laid out, and the view of the cliffs is tantalizing.  After a full day of touring the canyon, I was ready to relax with a sandwich and the scenery for an hour. 

By 3:00 the frigid morning air transitioned to hot, dry heat – the temperature registered as 62, but the intensity of the sun at a high altitude made it feel like July or August (80 degrees) in Montana. 

My mom and I went to the Visitor Center to get some hiking information for Thursday, where we purchased a few items including a ‘Utah Rocks’ hat from the Zion Natural History Foundation. 

Still eager to explore more of Zion, we took the Pa’rus Trail, which is within walking distance of our campground.  This 2 mile round trip hike is paved and great for bikers, those with wheelchairs/disabilities as well as avid walkers.  The scenery of Watchman and the Virgin River is striking, offering some of the best easy access views in Zion.  The trail showcases the wide range of topography and features from cactus and sagebrush, Cottonwood and Juniper to the monuments of sandstone that look like castles of the ancients.

On our way back to the campground we stumbled upon a trail that leads out of the park directly to Springdale – How awesome to be able to walk from your campground out of the park into town where you can find restaurants, showers, a Giant Screen movie theater (film about park shows there daily)…how convenient.  Zion is truly a walkable, and eco-friendly park.

With night settling fast and cold on the horizon, my mom and I drove to the Lodge to take care of incidental business online you have to tend to when you are on a road trip (reservations, checking your finances…)